home | subscribe | contact us | advertise with us | feature editorial guidelines | research editorial guidelines | gcsaa.org
February 2007
 

Presented in partnership
with Jacobsen, a Textron Inc. company


Your shop

In this issue

On the Web

Feature articles

The Insider

Departments

Research

GCM blog

GCM's Ask the Experts

Rust busting

Rust conversion primer goes on as a milky liquid applied to the rust on a tow hitch receiver. The surface was first cleaned, scraped, wire brushed and thoroughly rinsed. After a second coating is applied and it dries into a purple-black primer, paint can be applied. Photo by Scott Nesbitt

Golf course maintenance equipment is under constant attack from rust. My favorite rust buster is a “rust conversion primer.”

Rust is the reddish material that forms when water (even humid air) helps oxygen combine with iron atoms to make various ferric and ferrous oxides. Salt and acid in the water speed the process. Rust formation gets more complex as you add other chemicals like those alloyed with iron to make steel or to weld pieces together. Toss in the chemicals used in turf and machine maintenance, and rust is unavoidable.

Rust forms most easily where the metal is stressed, cracked, creased, dented or welded. Rust can eat through sheet metal and can penetrate into a metal piece, leading to structural failure. New machines are painted to keep water off the bare metal, but paint eventually wears away.

You can’t just slap fresh paint over a rusted surface. That may trap moisture under the paint and encourage more rust. Even if you grind the rust away, you may not be able to clean out all the nooks and crannies. Your new paint may blister from microscopic rust pockets left behind.

Rust conversion primer contains chemicals that combine with oxidized iron to form new, neutral molecules and block formation of more rust. Lately I’m using Permatex brand Rust Treatment, as I prefer the brush-on liquid. You may like formulas packed in spray cans. I’ve gotten good results from several brands and formulas. Pick a reliable supplier that handles a product that works. You’ll pay more than for plain primer, but will save time and elbow grease.

You must follow the label directions. Most formulations say you actually need some rust present to make conversion primer work.
With the product I’m using, surface prep is simple.

  • Using strong water-based cleaner, wash off oil and grease.
  • Dry.
  • Clean off flakes with a wire brush.
  • Wash again, wipe, and rinse, rinse, rinse.

Permatex says you can leave the surface damp when you apply the first coat of primer. Keep the spot at room temperature, out of strong direct sunlight, so the chemicals have time to work. In 15 to 30 minutes, apply a second coat. Dry at least 24 hours — longer, if possible. The resulting primed surface may look a little rough. Sand lightly and apply a good paint.

Give rust conversion primer a try. It can make life easier, and maintenance simpler.

A new utility box from UltraTech International Inc. can be used as a dock box, spill kit, storage bin and other functions, the company says. With 15 cubic feet of capacity, the Ultra-Utility Box can come with or without casters. The unit is lockable and heavy-duty with an all-polyethylene, weather-proof construction to keep contents safe and dry. The utility box also features a double-walled lid to deter rain. Forkliftable for easy handling, the unit is available in forest green, safety orange or yellow. Contact UltraTech International Inc., 800-353-1611 (www.spillcontainment.com).


Scott R. Nesbitt is a free-lance writer and former GCSAA staff member. He lives in Atlanta.

RECENT issues

January
2007

December
2006