home | subscribe | contact us | advertise with us | feature editorial guidelines | research editorial guidelines | gcsaa.org
November 2007
 

Presented in partnership
with Bernhard


Your shop

In this issue

On the Web

Feature articles

The Insider

Departments

Research

GCM blog

GCM's Ask the Experts

Steering box repair

Steering box repair parts include bearings and races, shims, an oil seal and a new steering wheel trim cover to keep from destroying your steering. Photo by S. Nesbitt

Repairing a water-damaged steering box takes some patience and only a few parts. The earlier you catch the problem described in last month’s column (“A hidden hassle,” Page 36), the easier the rebuilding will be.

Before starting, be sure to thoroughly clean everything, inside and out.

The photo above shows the parts involved: two thrust bearing sets with caged ball bearings and outer races. These mate with the inner bearing races machined onto the steering wheel shaft. If you don’t have a puller to remove the old race from the bottom of the gear box, make a tiny L-shaped pry bar by heating and bending the tip of a flat-blade screwdriver. Work this pry bar into the relief slot under the bearing race and pop it out. Use a wood block to press the new lower bearing race into place.

Install a new oil seal on the cross shaft.

It’s essential to buy a package that includes several of the thin metal shim gaskets, seen at the right side of the photo. These shims are used to adjust the clearances among the bearing races and the ball bearings. After installing both outer races and both ball bearings and lightly oiling all the parts, stack all the shims on the gear box.

Insert the assembled steering shaft and column into the box so the gears mesh, then install the bolts. Keep turning the steering shaft (without the wheel in place) as you tighten the bolts. Stop tightening the bolts and add shims if you feel the shaft binding.

You should feel the shaft move up and down slightly as you turn it Remove the bolts, lift out the column assembly, remove some shims, then bolt it all together.

Repeat until it takes some effort to twist the steering shaft. This pre-loads the bearings. It’s too tight if you feel the bearings “bumping” in the races.

Before final assembly, apply a thin layer of sealer to the shim area, and lock it all down. Fill the box with fresh oil (90-W is usually recommended). Put the tractor back together.

Install the steering wheel. Make sure the trim cap is in place to keep water out.

Find the center between the steering wheel’s left and right full-lock positions. Point the front wheels straight. Reassemble the steering links and arms.

Move the steering wheel and look for cross-shaft in-and-out movement. Adjust the screw-and-locknut on the outside of the box. Test drive and enjoy smooth, accurate steering.

Mi-T-M Corp. offers a Bio Series System that uses fixed-film bacteria in conjunction with coalescing media to treat wastewater systems. Various tank sizes and flow rates are used to create retention time, and oxygen is supplied to the bacteria in the waste stream by venturi injection. Ideal for removal of hydrocarbons from wastewater before recycling or discharge, the system offers two models for discharge operations and four models for recycling operations. Each unit is equipped with a NEMA-4 rated corrosion-proof control panel and a Mazzei venturi air injection system that sustains beneficial aerobic microbes while destroying odor-causing anaerobic bacteria. Stainless-steel tanks go through a passivation process to ensure a quality product with low maintenance, the company says. Contact Mi-T-M Corp., 800-553-9053 (www.mitm.com).



Scott R. Nesbitt is a free-lance writer and former GCSAA staff member. He lives in Atlanta.

RECENT issues

October
2007

September
2007