Bedknife screw installation Cancel The title field is required!

1. Kyle Fick

   

   4 posts
   
   2/21/2018 3:02 PM

   This is probably going to sound lazy most likely, but here goes....
   
   So I've been doing a lot of wondering on ease and things this winter while setting up cutting units with new bedknives and so on, and it has caused me to think about ways to make it easier. I find it annoying to get out a torque wrench when installing the bedknife to bedbar and it led me to think how much easier it is in other applications to use hand tools that are more comfortable. What really got me to thinking about this was when removing a couple sets from a different person's installation, the screws were way tighter than any "recommended" installation setting could have possibly have been. I had to use a pretty stout punch to knock them loose and then finish it off with a small impact driver to free them up. I'm assuming anti-seize was not used, but that's besides the point. I was wondering what this person had used to get them so tight.
   
   For s's and g's, I put an adapter into a cordless drill to see how comfortable it was vs the longer handle of the torque wrench and the need to keep my one hand above the head while my other hand was out on the handle and listening/feeling for the torque. I used a super low clutch setting to see how it'd work, and it was extremely comfortable.
   
   Now for the actual question, are any other techs out there comparing the setting of a drill/driver to that of a torque wrench and using that when installing bedknife screws? I'm preparing to do another and am going to set up a drill onto my torque wrench to find the sweet spot that matches the manufacturer's suggested values. Its so much nicer to handle the drill than the wrench, and I'd think using the adjustable clutch for getting the right value would be the thing to do.
   
   It seems to me someone once mentioned that they use a 1/4" impact driver to set them, but I can't remember for sure. I guess the other question that I am not sure of is what can really happen if these fasteners are installed to tight? Does it break the threads on the bedbar, does it warp the bedknife to much? I can't see how the bedknife could warp with 13 fasteners, but I'm no expert. Thanks for any replys.

   
   
   
   
2. Ron Bradley

   

   63 posts
   
   2/22/2018 5:02 AM

   Kyle, I know what you are talking about. I use to do the punch thing for many years ( been at this for 30 + years)
   but now I use a Milwaukee 1/4 " impact driver with a snap-on GF22 socket "round the edges a little" works great
   for me, I don't hammer them hard it will break screws Once they hit bottom I stop. then I grind the knife never
   had a problem at all. You will need a smaller screw driver socket for JD, Jacobsen units the snap-on tool is for
   toro units. I don't use anti-seize just a light film of grease (very light film). Hope this helps, stay sharp good luck.

   
   
   
   
3. Michael Kriz

   

   0 posts
   
   2/22/2018 8:02 AM

   I use a 1/4 impact to remove screws but DO use a torque wrench for consistency. When it comes to greens it's all about removing variables

   
   
   
   
4. Kenneth Meals

   

   2 posts
   
   2/22/2018 8:02 AM

   I use my screw guns with an adjustable clutch/torque setting, never an impact gun. Choosing a setting and checking the amount of tightness with loosening the screw with a torque wrench. Once I find the right setting for the torque specs, I use that setting. I never could understand why people use a punch after they tightened bedknife screws to "lock it on", I've never had a bedknife screw come out. With the amount of equipment we have there's a huge savings in the amount of time saved.

   
   
   
   
5. Jack Tripp

   

   3 posts
   
   2/22/2018 7:02 PM

   I use a little grease on the bed knife screws and bed bar. The bed bar is wiped almost as clean as possible. Then use a punch to tighten the screws after they are tight using a big screw driver. Two wacks with a three pound hammer is my torque. I then check with paper and it cuts all way across without grinding or lapping the bed knife. If it cuts all the way across can you better than that?
   
   I forgot to mention I don't remove the bed bar from the mower. You can even do this method with a mower on the lift if you have one dinged up bed knife you need to replace.
   
   As far as cutting all the way across, 10 years ago R&R's would cut all the way across without grinding and Toro's would not. For the last five years I have used Toro OEM bedknives and they now cut all the way across without grinding.

   
   
   
   
6. Jack Tripp

   

   3 posts
   
   2/23/2018 1:02 PM

   A question for Supts that grind new bed knives when they are attached to the bed bar. If you buy a new mower do you take the bed bar off and grind the bed knife to the bed bar before using the mower? If you are not the one grinding the bed knife to the bed bar it is not getting done because they don't grind the bed knives on new reel mowers at the factory. At Toro I know they may lap a reel for a very, very short time at the factory.

   
   
   
   
7. Bob Pruneau

   

   5 posts
   
   2/23/2018 2:02 PM

   Jack Tripp, CGCS said: A question for Supts that grind new bed knives when they are attached to the bed bar. If you buy a new mower do you take the bed bar off and grind the bed knife to the bed bar before using the mower? If you are not the one grinding the bed knife to the bed bar it is not getting done because they don't grind the bed knives on new reel mowers at the factory. At Toro I know they may lap a reel for a very, very short time at the factory.

   
   I've been doing this for quit a while and have worked on brand new gear and replaced hundreds of bedknives I have yet to see an unground new bedknife and quit a few new machine cut paper on light to no contact with either OEM or aftermarket bedknives . I do the drill setting thing or torque wrench . Going to grind them any way . Does speed things up for me . As far as making a difference on greens mowers hmm unless your cutting below .085" . For me it's need for speed and not overthinking it at this stage . I save that for setting them up .Taking screws out with and impact is definitely the way to go . Everybody has their way their happy with and works for them . I see new ways sometimes try it and say ya or nay

   
   
   
   
8. James Smith

   

   113 posts
   
   2/24/2018 6:02 AM

   It seems that the only reason to grind a bedknife is if its warped on the bed bar. you could take a straight edge to determine this before grinding saving that chore.
   
   Setting the screws is simply a trust thing. there are no locking washers to prevent the screws from backing out (why dont they make the screws with little ridges inside the head or put these on the bedknife to prevent this from the get go?) so as a mechanic I feel safer setting the screw with a punch. Remember it only takes one screw one time to stripe up a green or many with unattentive operators!
   
   I see no reason why you cannot use a drill set at the torque as long as its an electric drill and not a rechargeable one! when a battery starts getting weak it may not spec up! I would still punch my screws to set them afterwards. In my shop its called peace of mind! 35 years and I have never had a screw back out one of my reels! why mess with a proven method for a few extra seconds of time? you could always drill the head of a screw and use vice grips to remove.