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Primo on juvenile bentgrass

13 posts
  1. Casavant Gerry
    Casavant Gerry avatar
    8/25/2012 8:08 PM
    We're growing in a new bentgrass (CY-2) nursery. It was initially fertilized with a 16 32 6 starter at seeding 12 days ago. We got germination in 5 days and it is up and filling in very well.
    My question is: what should we be applying now? I'm thinking a spoon feed program with nitrogen and biostimulants (Astron) and also considering Primo to tame the vertical growth & encourage fill-in & rootgrowth.
    Your experienced thoughts & recommendations would be appreciated.

    Gerry Casavant
    Superintendent
    Prince Rupert Golf Club
    Prince Rupert B.C. Canada



  2. Dalton Andrew
    Dalton Andrew avatar
    8/25/2012 8:08 PM
    My opinion would be to yes spoon feed it weekly with a good shot of N P K and lightly roll it. I would not spray primo until your ready to start dropping the heights in a few weeks.

    Andrew



  3. Rosenthal Gregg
    Rosenthal Gregg avatar
    8/25/2012 8:08 PM
    Having done many grow ins of new golf courses and rebuilds, the last thing I would recommend doing is utilizing a growth regulator product in the early stage of any grow in of turf! I would continue to fertilize with light rates of starter fertilizer and root stimulator products until turf is finally grown in well! I would not think of growth regulator products until next year, when the turf and root system is finally grown in and no longer juvenile. Others may disagree but in my experience with bentgrass grow ins it has worked best for me. Your growth season is shorter and one wants to get the most out of it as you can! During a new course grow in one keeps play off the course for at least the first half of the grow in usually the first fall as seed is planted and course will be opened the next spring or later if one is lucky! JMO And be patient do not push too hard!



  4. Casavant Gerry
    Casavant Gerry avatar
    8/26/2012 9:08 AM
    Thanks for the confirmation on my suspicion with the Primo at this time and advice to have patience.
    I am still focussed on establishing a strong root system & getting more fill-in. Any suggestions on this?
    I imagine one might include mowing .. at what height for first mow .. or do we let the leaf grow as long as is manageable to encourage rooting?
    As you can see, I have plenty of questions, and your answers are very much appreciated.



  5. Rosenthal Gregg
    Rosenthal Gregg avatar
    8/26/2012 11:08 AM
    Gerry,

    I would usually start bent at 1/4 inch or just a hair under with some of these newer finer bladed varieties. Just keep pushing them as far as growing goes, light apps of fertility as I stated before and root stimulator. If you push too hard it makes them too leaf wide and mowing is beyond control. Some micro-nutrients never hurt either, a good liquid product can help rooting and leaf strength. As they beginning to fill in, as was stated topdress lightly to promote tightening of the turf and then you can begin the lowering of cut height. Patience is the key and drop a little at a time. With topdressing lightly in between. Soon enough you will have a nice green ready to go by spring a few good mowing, Fertilizer, micro-nutrients, topdressing, and it is ready for whatever you need by late Spring!

    I am smiling as we finally again getting some needed rain from mother nature here in Chicago area and also bringing cooler Temperatures!

    Gregg



  6. Casavant Gerry
    Casavant Gerry avatar
    8/26/2012 5:08 PM
    Thanks for sharing your experienced advice Gregg. I'll begin spraying soon with bios (Floratine products Astron, Renaissance, & PKFight) along with a balances NPK granular, though I'm not sure it requires the granular yet? .. only been two weeks since original 16 32 6 @ seeding.
    We're well over 1/4" already, but I'm hesitant to mow .. not sure how stable the surface would be yet.

    Thanks again
    Gerry



  7. Rosenthal Gregg
    Rosenthal Gregg avatar
    8/26/2012 5:08 PM
    If you have a roller, roll it then mow it! or just be careful with walking mower and use it as a roller keeping the blades up first time across, then mow it. It just comes a time one must cut, I know how you feel been there done it before!!! You just cannot allow turf to get too tall as it becomes a battle to lower the cut and scalping then becomes the issue...Once you start mowing the game truly begins!!! Best of luck and just don't be afraid you will be fine!!!

    Gregg



  8. Kyle Fick
    Kyle Fick avatar
    4 posts
    8/27/2012 2:08 PM
    Just a thought to add, when I established greens a few years back, I decided to use granulars more often for a couple reasons. These may or may not apply to what you are doing, but it worked for the purpose we were accomplishing.

    First off, we laid down at ten day intervals lighter rates of granulars to get .25 lb N/m with a split between a starter and an even keeled slower release product (organic) after we saw our first sign of germination. The thought was that we didn't have that much surface area to hit with liquids, and we were watering so often to keep both tender seedlings wet and in place, we'd be leaching away most materials any how. Also, with a 100% sand mix used, there'd be almost no ability to hold anything from the quicker release products, and the slow release stuff would be giving the young fellas something over the multitude of waterings each day. Waited on the quick release starter to see the plant to make sure the newly germinated seedling had a root to grab the material we were spreading. We waited to spray any foliars until we noticed actual movement from the individual seedlings to get the entire benefit and increase the surface area of tissue rather than "painting the sands" so to speak. Each time we walked on the surface, we'd simply tip the mowers back and walk the roller along idled way down to ensure we smoothed any tracks, and could go slow enough to walk without disturbing the surface. When we put our first cut down at .25" (dont' remember how long it was), we mowed without the baskets, and then began to spray after the first mowing. I wanted to encourage lateral growth after clipping the apical shoot before we put in the biostimulants and hormones you are talking about.

    The 2nd reason for this was that in the fall when we seeded the greens, we were also growing in the rest of the property, and if you anything like any place I've worked, lost the help to keep it all going.

    We did slowly step things down through the fall to get to a level that was acceptable based on how full the canopy was getting, but really didn't hack it till spring, and then got more aggressive with the liquids as well. Just a thought from a northern grass grower that knows how short fall establishment can be if you get early winters.



  9. Casavant Gerry
    Casavant Gerry avatar
    8/27/2012 9:08 PM
    Thanks for sharing your experience Kyle. Your point on liquids / surface area is excellent as is the slow release organic during high irrigation on sand. I actually applied an organic (Sustane 10 0 10) at seeding along with the granular starter (16 32 6) as we knew we'd be irrigating frequently to reach germination & drive early growth.
    I may have let this get a bit far, but today (16 days after seeding) we reached 1" of topgrowth and 1.5" of rootmass. We did our first mowing @ .600 .. maybe quite a chunk at close to 1/2 of total, but I thought it best to get to a reasonable HOC asap and begin the process of moving toward the target HOC of a putting green.
    We have pretty good density, though patchy in places, but I believe this should fill in better now with lower HOC?
    I think we still have close to a month of a decent growing window .. maybe longer. We're quite far north, but coastal, (north coast British Columbia) so lots of variation possible. Where are you located?



  10. Rosenthal Gregg
    Rosenthal Gregg avatar
    8/28/2012 4:08 AM
    Gerry,

    One thing you might consider doing to extend your growing time some is get a turf cover to use when expecting frost. Cover the green late afternoon, early evening to prevent frost from slowing down/stopping the pace of grow in/ The thing to be careful of is not to remove the cover in the am until the air temp has gone well above frost level as that cold air will drop to the ground and can do wild things late am sometimes, as I am sure you have seen up in Canada! I used to see it here in Chicago area sometimes a late am frost.... but you certainly can stretch your growing time several weeks with a turf cover to protect from early morning cold until it really gets all day cold! and the soil temp gets cold also! Sounds to me like you got it well under control! We just pounded our tees yesterday spent a nice 13 hour day poking holes and cleaning it up, no play on Mondays so rock and roll before Ladies day!

    Gregg



  11. Casavant Gerry
    Casavant Gerry avatar
    8/28/2012 11:08 AM
    Thanks again Gregg .. great point that I will certainly employ. Sounds like your season is winding down too with fall practices of aeration etc. Best of luck with these and everything!

    Gerry & Crew (GanGreen)



  12. Casavant Gerry
    Casavant Gerry avatar
    9/4/2012 5:09 PM
    We're down to .300" now and looking pretty good, but I'm concerned about potential diseases that may hit us. We're in a wet, rain forest, climate with temps getting down to 65 daytime & 50 overnight. Thinking about a preventative fungicide ap, but not sure what .. potential diseases, fungicides to use, or ability of young turf to handle this.
    Thoughts out there?



  13. Rosenthal Gregg
    Rosenthal Gregg avatar
    9/4/2012 6:09 PM
    Daconil, banner max good combo, subdue if worried about some pythium. Keep it simple soon you wont need any if it stays cool at night and dry. Water during day time so it is not wet in early am if able reduces some of the disease pressure! Sounds like you are doing well....

    Gregg



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