Removing Hydraulic oil on greens???? Cancel The title field is required!

1. Virgil Range

   

   0 posts
   
   6/5/2013 4:06 AM

   The past 2 days I have had 2 hoses break on the greens mower while mowing. Not so good huh. Are there methods to remove the oil to possibly save the turf. I immediately get wetting agent soap and hand water the hell out of it. That's the only think I know to do.
   Also does anyone suggest to replace hydro hoses for preventative maintenance. Ive never heard of anyone doing this before but thought id ask.
   
   Thanks for all your comments,
   Virgil

   
   
   
   
2. Steven Huffstutler

   

   11 posts
   
   6/5/2013 4:06 AM

   New hoses every 12 - 18 months. Wait for the grass to die, cut and resod. Sorry, dude, that's how it works here.
   
   Steve

   
   
   
   
3. Jennings Dustin T

   
   6/5/2013 5:06 AM

   I've heard that it's not the actual oil that kills the grass, its the temperature of the oil that fries it. So if that's true, there is really nothing you can do except re-sod. haven't had this problem yet but I'm sure we all have to deal with it at some point

   
   
   
   
4. Robert Dreesen

   

   0 posts
   
   6/5/2013 7:06 AM

   We hand water the hell out of every hydraulic leak we have. I haven't really seen it work on bentgrass greens. Seems to work all the time on bermudagrass fairways and rough. Turns orange but then responds to the watering and comes back. Obviously, that's bermudagrass though.

   
   
   
   
5. Anthony Nysse

   

   1 posts
   
   6/5/2013 7:06 AM

   Just had a small leak on a green this weekend from a roller. We switched to vegetable oil on Monday. It also has a blue dye it in.

   
   
   
   
6. Wahlin Scott B

   
   6/5/2013 8:06 AM

   [youtube">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR4D-tqrHz0[/youtube">

   
   
   
   
7. Henry Heinz

   

   0 posts
   
   6/5/2013 8:06 AM

   It's not the heat, studies have been done using water and it turns the turf off color but does not produce a total kill such as oil. The oil covers the plant and cuts off it's ability to get oxygen, that is where the true kill comes from. Vegetable oil helps, but produces nearly the same results as mineral based oils. The only hydraulic oil the will not kill turf, is Enbio oil, that Danny Dacosta sells. I believe that it is being marketed by BASF. I think there may be a video up somewhere on the benefits and change out procedures. A great product if used correctly, and the change over needs to followed 100% to the T. Have a leak, rinse with water, a little discoloration the first day or two, and within a week you have no signs of any leak.
   
   Regards,

   
   
   
   
8. James Smith

   

   113 posts
   
   6/6/2013 6:06 AM

   I have had issues with putting straight dawn on the area where it has killed the plants. We know thins because the hydrualic leak in generally a straight line but it is hard to manually apply the soap in the same straight line. now I mix mine in a bucket and apply but we still get the initial kill but the turf comes back quicker.
   
   The only problem I have with stripping it and sodding is that the grain never matches up or the nursery greens grass looks a little different then the greens (they are both TifEagle). Bio oils help to some degree but that is dependent on how bad the leak is.

   
   
   
   
9. Ashton Alan W

   
   6/6/2013 8:06 AM

   We use Chevron's Clarity in our equipment... when we've had a leak, it almost always results in a top kill. As the product is a bio, we get good recovery after several weeks... local aerification and topdressing to keep smooth and give the bermuda an avenue to fill in. I despise sodding a strip on the greens... feel it's better in the long run to avoid it.

   
   
   
   
10. Keshler Jordan

    
    6/10/2013 6:06 PM

    I recently saw the new product Peat Sorb used on a few greens of Craig Courier's after a hydro leak.....Looks like it works great.

    
    
    
    
11. Nicolas Davies

    

    0 posts
    
    6/11/2013 1:06 AM

    Well some good stuff .
    
    But I am sorry to maybe offend some here , but a good mechanic will reduce these incidents to more or less zero .
    A good mecahnic goes and checks his work on the course to avoid any mishaps when new pipe has been fitted , he will every once in while catch a pipe due to twisting has started to work loose.
    
    He will change out a pipe which looks suspect , i have only once seen a brand new pipe burst from brand new machine, blanking cap not properly removed in assembly .
    
    If you don't have a mechanic then change the hoses as per manufacturers spec around every two years.
    
    I know in these austere times budgets are tight , but over the rest of the world where i have worked , I always replace with locally made rather than OM and cheaper also higher standard and or pressure rating .
    Toro et Al build to cost so hoses from xyz that are 10 cents a metre cheaper get used
    
    I bought sometime ago Black Diamond machines from florida and they all were recon machines with aero standard hoses throughout , the machine went to the grave and hoses still good.
    
    Prevention prevention prevention is my vote
    
    The BASF stuff does look good will wait till it arrives in Saudi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    
    Nic

    
    
    
    
12. Diaz Robert E

    
    6/12/2013 7:06 AM

    Have had a couple good leaks on greens in past. We run as fast as possible with oil absorbant pads put them down over the leak and step or ever drive over slowly to absorb as much oil is possible you can see it work.
    Flip pads and replace till you think you have most of it. We then put about 16 oz. Dawn into spray tank and was it had w/ hose attached w/ good nozzle, have had good results, you have to act fast. Still got brown but came back through within weeks we have also hand aerified and filled hole to speed up recovery. If you did not get proactive right away I agree sodding only choice. Good luck southern VT out.

    
    
    
    
13. Wahlin Scott B

    
    6/12/2013 8:06 AM

    I do not understand the reluctance to use the BASF Enbio Oil. It makes a major freaking problem a total non-problem. If you screw up your greens with hydraulic oil that kills grass, how do you explain this when you knew there was an oil that does not kill grass? I have no financial investment in this product, it just seems like a no-brainer to me. (I have a 14yo Toro 3100 that ran with regular hydraulic oil for two years and Enbio for 12 years with no issues.)

    
    
    
    
14. Virgil Range

    

    0 posts
    
    6/13/2013 4:06 AM

    Thanks for all the replys. It seems like this is a no Brainer to use the Enbio Oil!! Does anyone know who the sales rep is around in the Kansas City Area. Can John Deere Landscapes get it?
    I will be posting the cost of it when I find out more info about it. But again, this is a no brainer. Wish I would have known about this a while ago.
    Thanks Again,
    Virgil

    
    
    
    
15. Matt Falvo

    

    0 posts
    
    6/13/2013 5:06 AM

    Virgil Range said: Thanks for all the replys. It seems like this is a no Brainer to use the Enbio Oil!! Does anyone know who the sales rep is around in the Kansas City Area. Can John Deere Landscapes get it?
    I will be posting the cost of it when I find out more info about it. But again, this is a no brainer. Wish I would have known about this a while ago.
    Thanks Again,
    Virgil

    
    
    
    The contact info is here: http://www.enbiousa.com/ and the price used to change with the markets similar to crude price changes. The last time I ordered it I bought 7 - 55 gallon drums so the price was discounted some for volume. This is a good product and it adds an insurance policy for your turf that really isn't available in any other form.
    
    
    Bret Hart
    Equipment Manager
    Turning Stone Resort

    
    
    
    
16. Daniel Mulder

    

    1 posts
    
    6/14/2013 7:06 PM

    We've been using the EnBio hydraulic oil for several years and have never lost any turf from a leak. We have it in our 4 - GM3100's, anywhere from 3700 - 4000 hours and in our 2 - GM3150's and next year in our 2 - RM5210's. Danny is a great guy to work with.